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Фрагмент инструкции
Be careful not to allow full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a run. Vee grooves can also be made with the toe of the skew, in the same manner as squaring an end. Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 53 Fig. 54 LONG CUTS Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in making the finishing cut is shown in Figs. 52. The gouge is turned on the tool rest so that it will be inclined in the direction that it will move. The grind is tangent to the work, and the center point of the cutting edge is the contact point with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and around the end of the curve, the handle is gradually raised and swiveled to the right (Fig. 53) in order to maintain the tangency between the grind and the surface being cut . Figs. 54 and 55 show the cutting of a long taper with a skew. The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder only at the start of the cut. The starting cut should be made with the heel (Fig. 54) to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As the tool moves down the work, the chisel can be pulled back to allow the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However, the full taper can be made with the heel. Be careful not to cut too deeply at the center of the taper. The direction of cutting is always downhill. Fig. 55 COVE CUTS Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is the most difficult to master. This cut is made with the gouge, where the size of the tool depends on the size of the cut. Push the gouge directly into the work to remove the surplus stock (Fig.56). Fig. 56 18 The gouge is placed on edge on the tool rest so that the grind of the chisel forms an approximate right angle with the work (Figs. 57). The chisel contacts the work at the center of the cutting edge. Hold the tool so that the centerline of the gouge is pointing directly toward the center of the revolving stock. This starting position is important to prevent the gouge from running along the surface of the work. From the starting position, push the gouge into the revolving stock, and roll the tool on the rest. A triple action takes place here. (1) The chisel will roll to follow the shape of the cut, (2) the handle will drop slightly so that the portion already cut will force the lip of the chisel sideways and, (3) the chisel will be pushed forward so that at the end of the cut, Fig. 58, it will be well up on the work and tangent with the cut surface. Make only one-half of the cut at a time, then reverse the chisel to cut the other half. The occasional turner should make cove cuts with a scraping technique, using either the small gouge or round nose chisel. SQUARE SECTIONS When the turning has a square section, joint the stock before turning. Good centering is essential since any error will show at the shoulder where the round meets the square. Turning of the shoulder from square to round can be done in various ways. If the parting tool is sharp, the nicking cut with skew (Fig. 59) can be omitted. The final trimming operation (Fig. 62) can be done with either the skew, spear chisel, or gouge, and is a scraping operation. While the shoulder can be cut with the same technique used for cutting a bead, the simpler scraping method pictured does clean work and is easier to do. Fig. 57 Fig. 58 Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 61 19 Fig. 62 FACEPLATE TURNING Mount turnings that cannot be worked between centers on a faceplate. The greater part of this type of turning is done with the faceplate mounting, although there are a number of jobs which require special chucks. All cutting in faceplate work is done by scraping. Any attempt to use a cutting technique on the edge grain of large work will result in a hogging, gouging cut which may jerk the chisel out of the hands of the operator. Use a band saw on all work to roughly cut the turning area slightly oversized to eliminate heavy roughing cuts in turning. MOUNTING WORK TO FACEPLATE Fig. 63 shows direct mounting to the 3” faceplate along with attaching to the backing block. Because of the ease of setting up, use this mounting whenever the work permits. Hold larger pieces in the same way by using the 6” faceplate. When normal screw-fastenings interfere, mount the work on a backing block (Fig. 63). When screws are not permissible at all, glue the work to the backing block by fitting a sheet of paper at the joint to allow later separation without damaging the wood. Some work can be screwed or nailed from the face side into backing block. Mount work less than 3” in diameter on the single screw center (Fig. 64). Fig. 63 Fig. 64 OUTBOARD TURNING For workpieces that require additional space for turning, or for the turning of bowls, etc., outboard turning is the answer. To make outboard turnings: 1. Remove the tool rest base and the tailstock from the lathe bed. 2. On the headstock, move the handle (A) Fig. 65 upward to loosen the tension of the headstock on the lathe bed. A Fig. 65 3. Lift the motor slightly and slide the headst...
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