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high style plus utility in a contemporary zigzag .. david dundas It was a revolutionary design in the 1930s, but not everyone can afford to sit on a piece of art. We work the best features of the original Zigzag chair into a stylish and completely accessible chair you can actually pull up to the dinner table. T he original Zigzag chair designed by Dutch architect Gerrit Rietveld in the 1930s is an iconic piece of artwork. The cantilevered, Z-shaped chair looked deceptively simple but employed masterful joinery and was hailed as a sublime example of minimalist design. It was not a chair you would want to use for, say, everyday dining. Nevertheless, with modern adhesives and joinery techniques, it is feasible to build a comfortable upholstered dining chair both reminiscent of Rietveld’s Zigzag and strong enough for everyday use. Our chair’s cantilevered frame also gives it a slight comfortable springiness. To withstand structural stresses, the chair’s side assemblies must be made from a strong hardwood such as jarrah, maple or white oak. The seat cross-rails and the slip-seat frame can be made from a secondary hardwood. The chair’s miter joints are reinforced and locked with floating tenons, epoxied, and pinned with brass screws. We designed this chair to be built using the Festool Domino tenon joiner. Getting started The visible parts of the chair can be made from an 8' board of 6"-wide 6/4 hardwood. Plane the board to a thickness of 13/8" and rip it into three lengths 1." wide. For ease of handling, cut the three lengths in half to yield six 4' lengths. Plane and joint each 4' piece so as to finish 13/8"x 19/16" ensuring that all the faces are square to one another. Crosscut the parts for the feet, legs, seat side rails, back stiles, and back rails from the 4’ lengths according to the cut list. It is easier to achieve a consistent length for the matching parts if you clamp a stop to a crosscut sled or use a miter gauge with a long fence and an adjustable stop. Mark out 38" radius curves on the top edges of the back rails, and bandsaw away the waste from their front faces. Use a random-orbit sander with progressively finer sanding disks to smooth and fair the curves. The hidden parts, the seat rails and the seat frame components, are made from an 8' board of ." x 2." secondary hardwood. Since the angle to be cut for the miters is 67.5°, you will need to make a supplementary 22.5° jig to achieve the correct angle (see sidebar). Cutting the miters Make the 22.5° jig for cutting the miters on the feet, legs, and the front end of the seat side rails. Before starting the cut, ensure that the broader (19/16" ) face of the workpiece is flat on the saw’s table (Fig. 1). Set aside the 22.5° offcuts for later use as wedges to facilitate clamping at the glueup stage. The 49° miters for the back stiles are cut without the jig by setting the miter gauge to 41° and clamping the rear face of the back stiles and the bottom face of the seat side rail against the miter gauge fence. Marking out and milling the mortises It is important to remember, when marking out the positions of the mortises on the components of the side assemblies, that the assemblies are mirror images rather than identical. It is worth laying out the parts and marking the matching miters before marking the mortise centers on the reference face (the face on which the Domino’s fence will rest). You are now ready to mill the mortises in the side assembly components except for the miter locking tenons, which will be milled after the leg miters have been glued up. All of the chair’s mortises are milled using the narrow width setting on the Domino joiner. Also, all of the chair’s mortises are cut with the 6mm-diameter Domino cutter, except those that reinforce the miter at the bottom of the back stiles, for which the 10mm cutter is used. The height of the Domino’s fence is set using the dimensions given in millimeters in the figures, so that the mortises are cut at the required distance from their respective reference faces. All the chair’s mortises are 20mm deep, except for those for the locking tenons, which are 28mm deep, and those for the back stile miter, which are 25mm deep. In order to achieve a perfect joint, the Domino’s fence must lie perfectly flat on the workpiece, so that the mortise is milled exactly perpendicular to the face. To help ensure that the machine’s fence remained flat during the cut, I clamped a cleat behind the workpiece so the fence would have a broad surface to rest on (Fig. 2). Although this procedure slows the milling of the mortises a little, it is essential to avoid the risk of cutting any mortise at the wrong angle. To mill the mortises in the end- grain of the back rails, seat rails and stretcher, you need to attach the narrow frame accessory (Fig. 3) to the Domino’s fence to hold the machine steady during the cut. The mortises in the end make a jig for cutting leg miters Cut a right-angled triangle from ." plywood with a base ...