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Фрагмент инструкции
Position button under foot and lower needle into center of left hole by turning hand wheel toward you. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot 3. Set stitch width at medium-wide zigzag ( | ) setting. Check stitch width by turning hand wheel slowly toward you; the needle should enter the right hole of the button. Take six or more zig-zag stitches to attach button. End on leftside. 4. To fasten stitching, return to stitch width j and take three or four stitches. Remove feed-cover plate from the general-purpose needle plate when work is completed. buttonholes Horizontal Placement on Crosswise Grain Lengthwise Grain ... _ 1 1 I I 1 Buttonhole Length Guide Markings Length of Buttonhole Button Stitching Opening BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes a uniform distance from the faced edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the fabric. For center closures, place guidelines as follows: 1. Mark the center line of the garment as indicated on your pattern. This guideline can be hand basted and should follow a lengthwise fabric thread. 2. Mark a position guideline for each buttonhole. • Horizontal buttonholes are placed to extend 3 mm beyond the center-line basting of the garment. Horizontal guidelines for the buttonholes should follow a crosswise thread of the fabric, and, if basted, be longer than the finished length of the buttonhole. Determine the length of the buttonhole (as described below) and mark ends of each buttonhole vertically. • Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the center-line basting of the garment is in the center of the buttonholes. Determine buttonhole length and mark ends of each buttonhole horizontally across the center line and use the center-line basting as a buttonhole guide when stitching. BUTTONHOLE LENGTH First, decide how long the button opening must be. Then, add 2 mm to the measurement for each bar tack (the closing stitches at each end of the buttonhole). To find the length of the button opening, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of the button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily. 28 STITCH WIDTH Two stitch width settings are required for making buttonholes: one for side stitching and one for the bar tack. Two possible combinations are illustrated. Selector Setting for Bar Tack Selector Setting for Side Stitching Procedure Set stitch length in 0-1 area of stitch length dial. Attach special purpose foot. Set the pattern selector at | , needle position selector at and stitch width selector at the width desired for the side stitching. Place work under needle, aligning center marking of buttonhole with center slot in the special purpose foot. Side Stitching Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lower foot. Take one stitch without changing width setting, bringing work to point C. Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take at least six stitches. Stop at point D. 29 BUTTONHOLES (Continued) Side Stitching Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave fteedle in fabric. Final Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks, and take at least six stitches ending at point F. \ I Fastening Stitch To secure stitching, move selector to ! and take three stitches. Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten, and trim. Cut opening for button with sharp scissors. LINGERIE SEAMS To make seams in lingerie durable and flexible, use a combination of straight and zig-zag stitching. Method 1 For 1.5 cm bias seam in woven fabric: • Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch width at ; ) on wrong side of fabric. • Press both seam allowances in the same direction. Then, from the right side, top-stitch with narrow zig-zag stitching, letting needle alternately enter seam line and seam thickness. Method 2 For narrow seams in nylon tricot: • Cut fabric for 1.5 cm seam allowance. • Straight-stitch seam line on wrong side of fabric. Then place a line of medium-wide, open zig-zag stitching close to the straight stitching. SEAM FINISHES • Needle Position: JL • Stitch Width: \ or % (maximum) • Stitch Length: 1,2 to 3 mm depending on choice of stitch and fabric • General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two methods of finishing seams in such fabfics: trimming seam edge or overedging. Make a test sample first to determine which method best suits your fabric. wwvwtwvwwwwwvwvw For a 1.5 cm Seam 31 hints on sewing special fabrics » \ Diagonal Stitching Across the Point LEATHER-LOOK VINYL • Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching. • Stitch w...
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