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Фрагмент инструкции
Aluminum oxide is the softer of the two, but is tougher and more suited for woods and soft (non-ferrous) metals. Silicon carbide is extremely hard and is best suited for surfacing stone, marble, and glass. Abrasives are classed as open-coated (with grits spaced apart), or closed- coated (with grits close together). Closed coatings provide hard, fast cutting action for hardwoods and dense metals, while open coatings are more suited to soft materials and painted surfaces. To obtain the best finish, start with a “COARSE” grade of abrasive and change to “MEDIUM” and then to“FINE” as work progresses. GENERAL SANDING SECURE THE WORK and maintain a FIRM GRIP on the sander. Friction between the sanding belt and the work will tend to move the work backward and the sander forward. ALWAYS be sure that the switch is OFF before connecting the tool to the power source. 1. Hold the sander off the work before starting the motor. 2. Lower the sander to the work, touching the rear part of the belt first. Level the machine when moving it forward. 3. Guide the machine over the work in overlapping strokes. Allow the sander to do the work. 4. Avoid applying excessive pressure. The weight of the machine is usually sufficient for a fast smooth finish. A slight increase in pressure may speed removal of material, but too much pressure will slow the motor and decrease removal. 9 5. Work back and forth over a fairly wide area to obtain an even surface. 6. Do not let the tool tilt. The edge of the belt can make a deep cuts into the surface. 7. Do not pause in any one spot during the sanding operation. The belt will eat into the work and make the surface uneven. 8. Lift the tool from the work before turning the motor off. 9. Always be sure that the motor has completely stopped before putting the tool down. FAST SANDING ON ROUGH WORK To smooth a rough surface quickly, use a coarse grit abrasive belt. With the belt positioned diagonally across the grain, move the tool in the direction of the grain (Fig. 5). Overlap the strokes and cover the entire surface, working from both sides of the board (angle left and then angle right.) Smooth the surface by guiding the sander back and forth with the grain. Change the belt to a medium grit and follow the same procedure. Finish by thoroughly working the grain lengthwise. Change again to a fine grit and repeat. Always finish sanding with the grain. REMOVING OLD PAINT AND VARNISH Fig. 5 Read and follow “ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR PAINT REMOVAL” section of this manual. The 352VS is an excellent tool for removing old paint and varnish from flat surfaces. However, two problems are common: 1) sanding material that loads the abrasive and, 2) friction heat caused by working too long in one place. To overcome the loading problem, use a coarse grit open coat abrasive belt and a single stroke action. Overheating can be avoided by using a fairly quick stroke and moving to another area quickly. A piece of felt about 1/4" thick can be inserted under the shoe for fast spot sanding and for working on stubborn areas of paint and varnish. SPECIAL SANDING PROCEDURES Generally, the operator should sand with a back and forth motion. Some materials and some types of operations, however, require a different technique. In rough sanding, use the tool at an angle. In spot sanding, use the tool with only the front pulley touching the surface (especially useful in smoothing excess glue from wood joints). On metals, slate, marble, or plastic materials, sanding can be done in all different directions because of a lack of grain. 9 10 DOORS AND MILL WORK When sanding doors, cabinet frames, sash, storm windows and screens, take care to avoid working into the cross grain where one member meets another. Notice that the right edge of the belt is visible on the sander. Work carefully along the edge where the rail meets the stile. If the joint is slightly uneven, use a fine abrasive and very light sanding pressure to smooth it before making finishing runs. For lengthy work on walls or other vertical surfaces, balance the tool with a length of sash cord, two small pulleys, a light wood frame, and a weight that is the same as, or slightly less than, the weight of the sander. The frame consists of two pieces leaning against a wall with a third piece nailed to their top ends. The two pulleys are located so that the weight on one end of the cord will be out of the way, but will balance the sander fastened to the other end. When starting vertical work, angle the sander so you can see that the belt makes contact with the material. As the belt touches, level the machine and make the stroke away and to the left. This movement will offset the tendency to cut heavily into the work at the start of the stroke. GOOD SANDING TECHNIQUE Getting to know the sander is most important in obtaining smooth results with a minimum of labor. Operators will quickly learn how to start a stroke with a sweeping motion to produce the best results. Use a long even st...