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NOTE: In some areas the 1/4” speaker jacks are not acceptable for use on amplifiers capable of high output power levels. For this reason your amplifier may have been shipped with the 1/4” jacks sealed – use only the Speakon® jack for connecting your speakers. 38. This is a 1/4-20 weld-nut which can be used to provide additional support for the rear of the unit. 6 Some Suggested Settings* SVT-2 PRO Bass Amplifier PEAK / MUTE ULTRA LO BRIGHT ULTRA HI GAIN DRIVE BASS MIDRANGE FREQUENCY TREBLE MASTER IN OUT OUT OUT AS NEEDED AS NEEDED PEAK / MUTE ULTRA LO BRIGHT ULTRA HI GAIN DRIVE BASS MIDRANGE FREQUENCY TREBLE MASTER IN OUT OUT AS NEEDED AS NEEDED PEAK / MUTE ULTRA LO BRIGHT ULTRA HI GAIN DRIVE BASS MIDRANGE FREQUENCY TREBLE MASTER OUT OUT OUT AS NEEDED AS NEEDED PEAK / MUTE ULTRA LO BRIGHT ULTRA HI GAIN DRIVE BASS MIDRANGE FREQUENCY TREBLE MASTER IN OUT OUT OUT AS NEEDED AS NEEDED IN IN GRAPHIC EQ GRAPHIC EQ GRAPHIC EQ GRAPHIC EQ *A Note About The Graphic EQ: The Graphic EQ can be used in two ways: 1) To fine tune your sound, make small adjustments at the desired frequencies and leave the EQ on throughout the entire session. (This is great for adapting to varying room acoustics when going from club to club, etc.); 2) For a completely different sound, make larger adjustments and only activate the EQ when you want a “second channel” sound (such as during bass solos). ROCK: JAZZ: COUNTRY: FUNK “POPPING”: SVT-2 PRO Bass Amplifier Changing the Tubes Tubes wear out in direct proportion to how often and how hard you play the amplifier. Power tubes should be checked at least once a year – more frequently if you use the amplifier nearly every day. When the power tubes wear out, the amplifier will begin to grow weak, lack punch, fade up and down, or lose highs and lows. Power tubes work together in a push/pull configuration and should all be replaced at the same time with matched or balanced tubes. Your dealer can recommend the best replacement tubes for your amplifier. Preamp tubes aren’t worked as hard as power tubes and typically last longer. When a preamp tube wears out, the amplifier may squeal, get noisy, lose gain and sensitivity, or just quit working. A service center can determine which tube(s) may need replacing. To get to the tubes in the SVT-II PRO, the rear screen must be removed and the tube retainer(s) must be moved out of the way. Qualified service persons may follow these steps to change the tubes: • Turn the amp off, unplug it and let it cool for at least 5 minutes. • Remove the screws which hold the four large plastic feet to the rear of the chassis. Set the feet and their screws aside. • Taking care not to stretch or disconnect any wiring, gently set the perforated metal screen aside. • Remove the tube retainer(s) by lifting them off the tube and moving them to one side. • Grasp the tube at its top and gently work it out of its socket by rocking it slightly back and forth as you lift up on it. • When inserting new output tubes, align the tab in the tube’s plastic base with the slot in the socket and press the tube gently but firmly into place by pushing down on its top. Preamp tubes have a “missing pin” which corresponds with the “missing hole” in the socket – line up the missing pin and hole before pressing the tube into its socket. • Replace the tube retainer(s) on the tube(s). • Replace the perforated screen, the four large plastic feet, and tighten their screws. • Power up the amplifier and let it sit for at least 20 minutes. Bias the amplifier as directed in the section below. Setting Tube Bias Allow the unit to warm up at proper AC line voltage for at least 20 minutes. With no input signal present, adjust each control so that only the associated green LED is lit. The controls may be slightly interactive. If neither LED is lit, the amp is overbiased. This will result in some distortion in the power amp and a generally thin sound. If the green and red LED are lit, the amp is underbiased and too much current is flowing in the power tubes. This will give a big, full sound but will also reduce the life of the power tubes. Once set, the controls should not have to be changed except as needed for tube replacement, or to compensate for tube aging. Note that the AC line voltage may vary from place to place and the LEDs will read slightly different. There is no need to fiddle with this every other day. Note that it is normal for the red LEDs to light when there is a signal present. Bias 1 Control adjusts the three left (as seen from the rear) power tubes. Bias 2 Control adjusts the three right power tubes. By observing the LEds as the Bias Controls are slowly rotated clockwise, a number of tube problems can be diagnosed by the user: Condition Problem Solution Green comes on, then red No problem (The longer the green LED is on before the red LED comes on, the better matched the tubes are.) Red comes on, then green Tubes not properly matched Set slightly before green comes on, obtain matched tubes when p...