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Фрагмент инструкции
Tooth Style When selecting blades, another option to consider is the shape, gullet size, teeth set and teeth angle — otherwise known as “Tooth Style.” Figure 36 shows the three main categories of tooth style: Skip Raker Hook Figure 36. Raker, Skip & Hook tooth styles. • RAKER — This style is considered to be the standard because the tooth size and shape are the same as the tooth gullet. The teeth on Raker blades usually are very numerous, have no angle, and produce cuts by scraping the material; these characteristics result in very smooth cuts, but at the same time do not cut fast and generate more heat while cutting. • SKIP — This style is similar to a raker blade that is missing every other tooth. Because of the design, skip toothed blades have a much larger gullet than raker blades, and therefore, cut faster and generate more heat. However, these blades also leave a rougher cut than raker blades. • HOOK — The teeth on this style have a positive angle (downward) which makes them dig into the material, and the gullets are usually rounded for easier waste removal. These blades are excellent for the tough demands of resawing and ripping thick material. Tooth Pitch Usually measured as T.P.I. (teeth per inch), tooth pitch determines the size of the teeth. More teeth per inch (fine pitch) will cut slower, but smoother; while fewer teeth per inch (coarse pitch) will cut rougher, but faster. As a general rule, choose blades that will have at least three teeth in the material at all times. Use fine pitched blades on harder woods and coarse pitched blades on softer woods. Blade Care A bandsaw blade is a delicate piece of steel that is subjected to tremendous strain. You can obtain longer use from a bandsaw blade if you give it fair treatment and always use the appropriate feed rate for your operation. Be sure to select blades with the proper width, style, and pitch for each application. The wrong choice of blades will often produce unnecessary heat which will shorten the life of your blade. A clean blade will perform much better than a dirty blade. Dirty or gummed up blades pass through the cutting material with much more resistance than clean blades. This extra resistance also causes unnecessary heat. -32- G0555 14" Ultimate Bandsaw Blade Breakage Many conditions may cause a bandsaw blade to break. Blade breakage is unavoidable, in some cases, since it is the natural result of the peculiar stresses that bandsaw blades are subjected to. Blade breakage is also due to avoidable circumstances. Avoidable breakage is most often the result of poor care or judgement on the part of the operator when mounting or adjusting the blade or support guides. The most common causes of blade breakage are: (1) faulty alignment and adjustment of the guides, (2) forcing or twisting a wide blade around a curve of short radius, (3) feeding the workpiece into the blade too fast, (4) tooth dullness or absence of sufficient set, (5) excessive tension, (6) top blade guide assembly set too high above the work piece, (7) using a blade with a lumpy or improperly finished braze or weld and (8) continuously running the bandsaw when not in use. Blade Changes Always disconnect power to the machine when changing blades. Failure to do this may result in serious person- al injury. ! To remove the blade: 1. Unplug the bandsaw! 2. Release tension on the blade by turning the tension control knob counter-clockwise. 3. Remove the table insert and the table pin. Adjust the upper and lower guide blocks away from the blade. Wear gloves and safety goggles when handling blades. Coiled blades spring open as they are uncoiled and could cause deep punctures or lacerations. 4. Open the upper and lower wheel covers and slide the blade off both wheels. Use caution — the blades are sharp! 5. Rotate the blade 90° so it will slide through the slot in the table. G0555 14" Ultimate Bandsaw -33 To replace the blade: 1. Slide the blade through the table slot, ensuring that the teeth are pointing down toward the table. If the teeth will not point downward in any orientation, the blade is inside-out. Put on heavy gloves, remove the blade, and twist it rightside-out. 2. Slip the blade through the upper and lower guides, and mount it over the upper and lower wheels. 3. Apply tension, then check and adjust tracking. 4. Adjust the upper and lower guide blocks and the support bearings. 5. Close and tighten the wheel covers. 6. Replace the table insert and table pin, being sure not to use excessive force when inserting the table pin. Scale Calibration You may need to recalibrate the fence scale after changing or adjusting the blade, or if the scale is not producing accurate cuts. Recalibrate the fence scale by adjusting the hairline indicator on the fence and testing your adjustment by cutting a piece of scrap wood. To calibrate the scale: 1. Set the fence anywhere along the scale and locate a scrap piece of wood with at least one straight edge. Joint the edge with a jointer if need...