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Фрагмент инструкции
. . after setting the Bass Boost to work best with your subwoofer/ enclosure combination. More is NOT always better! SETTING UP & USING REMOTE SUBWOOFER GAIN CONTROL (R S) If you are using the R S control, make sure to take this into account during set-up procedures of the subwoofer amplifier. You should set the system up with the R S plugged in, and with the level knob turned all the way down (counter clockwise). NOTE: the R S ONLY works when you’ve selected the LPF (low-pass) crossover configuration. TROUBLE-SHOOTING SYMPTOM 1. No power 2. Power without sound with red power/protection indicator on 3. Power without sound with red power indicator on 4. No sound from one side 5. Very low sound from both radio & tape 6. Frequent automatic amplifier shut down 7. "Motorboating": The amplifier power indicator going off repeatedly when the audio system is on 8. Whining noise when engine is running with noise varying with the accelerator (noise level varies with source unit volume control) PROBABLE CAUSE Check connections to the amplifier's terminals. Check connection at "+" terminal of the battery. Check the remote turn-on terminal. Ensure it receives power when the source is turned on (or when the switch is turned on). Refer to the Installation Section. Check the fuse: if fuse is blown, replace it; if fuse continues check the power wire and also the amplifier for a short. If the short is in the power wire, fix it; if the short is in the amplifier itself, see your Coustic dealer. Check the voltage at the amplifier, and the remote ON/OFF lead. The voltage should measure between 11 V - 15 V. If the measurement is beyond this range, have the source unit checked out by an authorized dealer. Turn the amplifier off, and Check all input & output signal cables and connections. Check the speakers for short with a VOM (volt meter) or by connecting them to another audio system. After making sure everything is normal, turn the amplifier on again. The continuous red light of the power indicator signals a high internal operating temperature, which results in the amplifier switching off temporarily; when the amplifier cools down to a safe level, the amp will automatically restart. Check balance control. Check speaker connections. Check signal input connection. Check your radio's fader control. Check the amplifier's Input Sensitivity Level. This indicates that the amplifier is operating at a continually undesirable high internal temperature. High operating temperature caused by inadequate ventilation: Refer to the sub-section titled LOCATION for better amplifier location. High operating temperature caused by an excessively low impedance load, say below 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms bridged: Check for bad speakers and/or electronic crossover, proper passive crossover components; if all else fails, try rewiring the entire system. High operating temperature can be caused by an incorrect input sensitivity level: refer to sub-section titled INPUT SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENTS for correct setting. Check the amplifier's connection to the battery. Check battery voltage. If low, recharge or replace battery. Check all ground connections. Reroute power cable from battery to source unit directly, bypassing the battery terminal in the fuse box. Check power connections to be sure they areclean. Check ground connections to be sure the ground wire is in direct contact with the bare metal surface of the chassis (with that spot scraped clean of any paint, rust or grease) . 15 COUSTIC.COM SYMPTOM 9. Constant level whining noise (most noise with source unit volume at minimum) CAUTION: 10. Radiated noise: crackling noise on FM which is not present when playing tape or CD (noise varying slightly with accelerator but is present at all times) PROBABLE CAUSE Check for a ground loop in the system. the system off and one by one change the ground changing to a different contact point,scraping constant irrespective of metal clean of any grease). Turn the system on and check for whining noise after each ground change. Do not disconnect the Power Amplifier's ground system is on. This could damage the amplifier. Check for defective signal cables. Disconnect signal cables at the amplifier and listen carefully for noise. If the noise run a test pair of signal cables. If there is no undesirable whining noise, reconnect to the amplifier with the new pair of signal cables. Check battery ground connection to the vehicle chassis to make sure it is tight and clean. Check battery negative terminal connection to make sure it is tight and clean. Check if the noise is actually radiated noise: Tune a portable radio to the same FM station. Move the portable radio close to the vehicle engine. If crackling noise comes from the portable radio, then the noise you have in your vehicle audio system is radiated noise.Check with a VOM (volt meter) to makesure the antenna is really grounded to the vehicle chassis. To ensure a true ground, break the plastic covering of the antenna lead and solde...
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